Château de Versailles

Archaeology in Versailles

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A place of art and history, the Estate of Versailles is and has been since the early 1990s a vast field of archaeological excavations.

The Palace, Museum and National Estate of Versailles and Trianon form a listed historical monument, so all the development projects affecting the subsoil are preceded by historical and archaeological research work. The latter takes the form of probes to detect the presence of possible vestiges, whose presence leads to more in-depth excavation work.

Excavations in the Queen’s Grove © A. Heitzmann

While archaeological work was carried out in Versailles throughout the 20th century, it became systematic only in the early 1990s with the launch of the general replanting of the park, devastated by the storm of 3 February 1990.

These archaeological excavations are carried out by the palace of Versailles, which has an archaeologist among its personnel (Annick Heitzmann), attached to the Centre de Recherche du Château de Versailles (CRCV). She is assisted by volunteers organised in a non-profit organisation (Volutes). The archaeological work is authorised, monitored and sometimes funded by the Service Régional de l’Archéologie d’Ile-de-France. In the case of preventive excavations, it calls on the expertise of approved bodies, notably the Institut National de Recherche en Archéologie Préventive (INRAP).

Since 1990, ten places have been excavated by the palace of Versailles (or by the CRCV since it was set up in 2006), some several times. Most of the excavations concern structures from the reign of Louis XIV located in the Park of Versailles.

Round green grove Pavillon Frais Queen's grove Location of the excavation programmes undertaken by the palace of Versailles

The excavation programmes

Since the early 1990s, ten places located on its Estate have been excavated by the palace of Versailles.


Encelade grove (restoration of the trellis work in 1997)

The first real probe in the park of Versailles was launched in the spring following the storm of 1999. It revealed the foundations of half of one side of the octagonal trellis bower. These vestiges were on view for the launch ceremony for the general replanting of the park that was held in the presence of Jack Lang, then Minister for Culture. One of the trellis pavilions had been restored for the occasion. It was only five years later that the general excavations were carried out to uncover all the foundations of the bower and those of the eight corner pools. The stone blocks that had served as the base for the trellis arcades of the bower had split when removed, but the pieces were recovered and replaced in their exact position on the masonry foundation. The layout of the trellis bower was discovered in this way.

The Quincunxes (renamed the Girandole Grove and the Dolphin Grove in 2000)

The excavation of these two symmetrical groves was carried out in a single operation in 1994. It took the form of several large-scale probes in each of the pools of the Girandole Grove and the Dolphin Grove, in each case their central round pool and the “Faun” pool located to the east of the groves. These latter probes were the most significant: apart from remains of the inner stonework of the pools, many fragments of their edges were recovered.

Grove of the Three Fountains (restored in 2004)

This large grove was excavated in three operations. In 1999, a series of probes was carried out to find the vestiges of the structures that had not been restored in 1892: the octagonal pool and each of the two cascade systems. In 2001 the pool was totally excavated, while in 2002 the uncovering of the cascades revealed that they had been built differently: the water-tightness of the upper cascade was ensured by a sheet of lead, whereas potter’s clay had been used for the two lower and very well preserved cascades.

Grille Royale/Royal Railings and Gates (restored in 2008)

The archaeological operation on the Grille Royale took place in two stages. In 2001, probes were made on each of the three sections of the railings: those enclosing the Princes Courtyard, the Royal Courtyard and the Chapel Courtyard. In 2006, the general excavation was carried out on the principal section of the railings, separating the Royal Courtyard from the Main Courtyard (Cour d’Honneur) the only one to be restored. During these two operations, the overlapping of the gateway substructures laid down successively by Louis Le Vau and Jules Hardouin-Mansart was highlighted. One of the two pits flanking the gateway of Le Vau was excavated, delivering up significant archaeological material (dating from 1664-1679).

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Star grove

Only probes were carried out, in 2002, in this grove where the work on the inner section – where the actual grove was located – has not yet been programmed. A series of small probes was carried out in the central room of the grove, which had contained the Water Mountain pool. They revealed the rubble from the demolition of this pool and some of the foundations of its surrounding trellis work, proving that this room had been much smaller originally than what it became before the storm of 1999. The other probes concerned the network of drystone drains: a radial drystone drain to evacuate the central pond, a pentagonal drystone drain for the five small corner pools and a main drystone drain evacuating all the water of the grove.

Round green grove (former Water Theatre)

Some probes were carried out in 2002, following those on the Star Grove, before the replanting of the borders of these two groves that were devastated by the storm of December 1990. These probes were quite inconclusive, some revealing no vestiges and others finding unidentifiable vestiges. However, in 2011, its archaeological study was resumed in an excavation programme on a larger scale. While the vestiges of the Water Theatre had disappeared in the southern part of the grove, which was levelled during its transformation into the Round Green in the early reign of Louis XVI, its northern sections, which had been filled in, revealed large substructures of the Theatre: the central pool and the drystone drain, as well as the surface of the walks and the room.

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Guardroom of the swiss guards

Two small probes were carried out in 2004 in the former Guardroom of the Swiss Guards, located under the Main Courtyard to the north. In 1814 this large interior space was filled in when its vaulting was found to be damaged. But the earth fill settled down over the centuries, threatening the stability of the ground in the courtyard again. The inner earth fill was partly removed to allow probes which on this occasion revealed the level and the nature of the original flooring. Following an examination of the surface of the walls and pillars, a clearer picture of the interior layout of this guardroom emerged.

Garden of the Lantern pavilion

A probe was carried out in the same year in the garden of the Lantern Pavilion in search of the pool formerly located at the junction of the two principal walks. The old hydraulic system – drystone drain, lead piping and brick chamber – was found, while the only remaining part of the pool itself was a metal hoop which probably held together wooden slats, long since rotted away, formerly covered with sheet lead.

Garden of the Pavillon Frais of Trianon (partly restored in 2010)

The excavations of the garden of the Pavillon Frais, the only ones carried out in Trianon, were almost exhaustive when the original work programmed for 2006 was prolonged up to 2009. Almost all the foundations of the eastern and symmetrical half of the garden were uncovered: the portico, pool and hydraulic system, and its layers of sediment were analysed to trace the history of the site. The western section was treated more quickly: only its pool was excavated with its drystone drain and manhole, revealing the hydraulic functioning of the garden and abundant archaeological material from the 19th century.

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Queen’s grove (former Labyrinth)

Only probes were carried out in this grove, in 2008. They were done in two phases and concerned nine fountains of the Labyrinth of Louis XIV. The fountains dealt with in the first phase were detected by geophysical prospection but those of the second phase did not appear in the results of the prospection and were found only by superimposing a former plan on the present plan of the grove. Apart from stonework, the probes revealed large amounts of material, mostly elements of the decorative work of the fountains.

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Round green grove (former Water Theatre)

In 2011, archaeological excavations were carried out in the Round Green grove which uncovered vestiges of the former Water Theatre of Louis XIV.

The Round green grove was closed to the public after the storm of 1999 destroyed the tree cover. The border strips were replanted in 2003, but its central lozenge, which used to contain the celebrated Water Theatre of Louis XIV, remained a waste lot awaiting a decision on its redevelopment.

It was not until 2010 that it was decided to lay out a contemporary garden here. Before work began, an archaeological operation was necessary and an excavation programme was carried out from April to June 2011.

The Water Theatre was laid out between 1671 and 1674 by Le Nôtre, backed up by the hydraulics engineers Francine and Denis, while the fountains were designed by Le Brun. It consisted of a large almost round area with two semicircular amphitheatres with tiers of seats and separated by an oblong pool divided into two levels of water. The semicircular stage was framed by three triangular cascades falling in tiers, adorned with varied seashells and numerous water spouts (fig. 1). At the top and the bottom of the cascades were fountains decorated with lead sculptures. In 1677, the amphitheatres seating the spectators were surrounded by 18 round rocaille pools, each with a spout of water reaching up to arcades of greenery planted between 1680 and 1688.

During the replanting ordered by Louis XVI in 1775, the very damaged Water Theatre was destroyed and the grove was replaced by the Round green (“Rond-vert”). The diagonal walks were prolonged to reach the central circular lawn area that gave the grove its name.

During the archaeological operation, twenty-three probes were made (fig. 2). The finest discovery was the central pool of the of the Water Theatre which separated the stage from the rest of the theatre, as well as several drystone drains for evacuating water and the floor of the theatre, the boundary walk and the entry. From the reign of Louis XVI only one drystone drain was discovered but though it crossed the grove it did not belong to the Round green.

Most of the archaeological materials found consisted of parts of the decorative rocaille stonework of the pools and cascades: millstone grit with brass wire, molten glass, pieces of quartz, common seashells rarely whole, and iron nails used to maintain the rocaille. Other finds were: shards of blue and white earthenware garden vases, some coins and tokens and above all a Neolithic polished axe head (fig. 3). Apart from this axe head, the finest object found was a magnificent exotic seashell, entire and still in place with its brass wire on one of the rims of the central pool of the Water Theatre (fig. 4).

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Garden of the Pavillon Frais

Between 2006 and 2009, several excavations were carried out in the garden of the Pavillon Frais, whose results were useful for the restoration of this building constructed for Louis XV.

Louis XV, who enjoyed the intimate life at Trianon, decided in 1749, at the instigation of the Marquise de Pompadour, to have a menagerie built beside this palace. The new menagerie, with a very different design to the one in Versailles, was to house not elephants or monkeys, but cows, chickens and sheep. To give variety to the royal visits, the architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel added to this menagerie a garden, to be both decorative and provide vegetables, surrounding a summer pavilion for games, collations or concerts (the French Pavilion), that was completed in 1750. The following year a second and smaller pavilion was added top be used as a dining room, probably for serving the products of the dairy and market gardens.

In front of this second pavilion, called the Pavillon Frais, was a small garden surrounded by a rectangular portico of trellis work whose long side faced the pavilion (fig. 1 and fig. 2). On either side of the pavilion, the alignments of arcades were doubled to form two walks. The pilasters of the portico concealed the trunks of the lime trees and revealed only their foliage, trimmed to form balls. The two main pilasters framing the entry to the garden were surmounted like the pavilion with an entablature and large wooden baskets. Fifty-four other and smaller baskets decorated the clamps of the arcades between the pilasters. The whole structure was painted green.

The garden had two oval pools on the inner sides of two symmetrical rectangular flower beds whose outer sides had fan palms in the centre. The flower-beds and pools were framed by strips of flowers interrupted by small paths, and the centre was occupied by flower-beds set in a strip of lawn. The two pools were surrounded by slabs of Languedoc marble, like the chimney of the pavilion, paved with two-coloured stones and decorated with a water spout.

The Pavillon Frais was destroyed in 1810, its portico pulled down the following year and its pools filled in between 1830 and 1840 – according to a bottle with the coat of arms of Louis-Philippe found in one of them during the excavations (fig. 3). The restoration of the pavilion was begun in 1980, but was interrupted after the reconstruction of the building itself which has stood since then facing simple lawns and devoid of its trellis decoration. But the opportunity of sponsorship from America recently made it possible to replace this building in its garden and part of its trellis.

What this garden originally looked like is known, but mostly from estimates, and perhaps not all the details survived in the finished work. Moreover, the different plans of the project show the hesitations of the architect. So an excavation was undertaken to determine the exact siting of the different blocks of masonry. It involved at first only the eastern half of the garden, as this was symmetrical.

In 2006, a geophysical prospection method using electricity was carried out. This non-destructive method consists of studying the resistivity of the ground by passing an electric current through it. It was followed by three probes: the first on the site of the pool and the two others at the south-east and north-east corners of the portico. The overall site coverage of this half garden was thus discovered.

The pool was well preserved, with its outer wall, its potter’s clay bed, its drystone drain and, especially, its decorative paved floor (fig. 4). However, the inner wall of the pool had been levelled (probably to recover its stone slabs) and the lead piping had been removed, destroying part of the paving. Several fragments of the marble edge were found in the filling material. The foundations were found to be still in place in the two corner probes, as were those of the niche and the pedestal of the statue in the south-west corner.

The following year a more general excavation uncovered almost the entire foundations of the portico of the eastern half of the garden (fig. 5). It was completed in 2008 by a study of the still well-preserved timber platforms under the inner wall of the pool.

In 2009, an in-depth stratigraphic study revealed the different stages in the laying out of the garden. Then, before the restoration work began, the pool in the western section of the garden, in a much poorer state than the one in the eastern half, was excavated. The diggings revealed the pool, part of its drystone drain and the manhole where the valve activating the water spout was located. The configuration of this manhole showed that the two pools were supplied indirectly from the Trefle reservoir, bypassing the French Garden.


 

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Queen’s grove (Labyrinth)

In 2008, the archaeological probes made in the Queen’s Grove revealed traces of the former Labyrinth of Louis XIV.

Archaeological probes were carried out in June and July 2008 in the Queen’s Grove. Their aim was to find the remains of the Labyrinth buried under the surface of the grove’s soil.

Begun by André Le Nôtre in 1665, this grove first consisted of a simple maze of walks cutting through the forest. A few years later, starting in 1672, and based on an a theme by Charles Perrault and in the literary context of the publication, in 1668, of the first books of the Fables of Aesop translated into verse by Jean de la Fontaine, this early composition was progressively enriched with decorative trellis structures and thirty-nine rocaille fountains.

The fountains illustrated some of Aesop’s fables with figures of animals cast in lead and painted with natural colours and the overall programme was completed in 1677. Already regarded as outdated at the end of the reign of Louis XIV, this composition progressively deteriorated during the 18th century and then, in 1778, following the major replanting of the park carried out for Louis XVI, it was replaced by a different composition greatly influenced by the new English taste: the Queen’s Grove.

A geophysical prospection was carried out before the probes were made (fig. 1). It determined five places where the presence of ancient stonework was perceptible. Five probes were then carried out in June, corresponding to these five structures:
Probe A: fountain of the fighting animals
Probe B: trellis pavilion
Probe C: fountain of the peacock and nightingale
Probe D: fountain of the wolf and the stork
Probe E: fountain of the hare and the tortoise

They all revealed traces of masonry or demolition rubble. After these probes, it was possible to make a more accurate superimposition of the plans of the Labyrinth on the current plan of the Queen’s Grove (fig. 2). This identified the location of the different fountains. Four other probes based on this superimposition were begun in early July (fig. 3).

Probe F: fountain of the cock and the fox
Probe G: fountain of the eagle, the rabbit and the dung beetle
Probe H: fountain of the rats’ council
Probe I: fountain of the wolf and the porcupine (fig. 3 and fig. 4)

The fountains had left their mark in the ground, though the vestiges discovered are not always easy to identify. Apart from stonework, the probes revealed in the demolition rubble some rocaille elements that decorated the pool edges and the supports of the lead sculptures of the fountains: shells, molten glass and coloured pebbles, copper sheets, millstone grit, etc. (fig. 5).

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